Best Tools for your Indoor Cycle Tool Box
Video about the Recommended Tools for an Indoor Cycle Tool Box
- This video will show what tools and products you will want to have in your tool box if you are working on indoor cycles
- The tool kitshown in this video is a kit that you can buy from Sportsmith that has a lot of the tools you will need
- They include but are not limited to:
- Cotterless Crank Arm Extractor
- 8MM Hex Wrench (for crank arm bolt removal on some cycles)
- Six Inch Adjustable Wrench
- Phillips and Flat head Screwdriver with Magnetic Tip (which can be quite handy in the field)
- 14mm & 15mm Pedal Wrench (for installing and removing pedals)
- Chain Break Tool
- Chain Whip Tool
- Bottom Bracket Tool
- Something you might want to add to the kit is a 5/16”-24 x 2” bolt and several washers that you can use to install the tool on to the bottom bracket with. Then use another tool to loosen the bottom bracket by turning the bottom bracket tool
- Set of Hex Wrenches
- They include but are not limited to:
- Sometimes you may find that you cannot get enough torque or the right size from the set of hex wrenches in the pre-packaged tool kit, so it’s a good idea to have a set of the bits that will work with a 3/8” drive ratchet or for use with your torque wrench when setting torque on things
- You may also want to include an ISIS style bottom bracket tool in your toolbox, which you can also use the bolt and washers with if needed
- Some of the other tools you will need to have in your tool box:
- Lock Ring Tool
- Torque Wrench
- We show both a click style and a needle and beam style torque wrench in the video
- Either one will work, just be sure to consult the manual to get the torque specs for whatever you are setting torque on
- A rubber mallet is also handy if something is locked up or jammed
- A good pair of pliers and a set of locking pliers are also helpful at times
- A chisel is sometimes needed to use with the rubber mallet to turn a rusty nut or bolt or to push out the pressed in bottom bracket bearings
- You will want a wire brush for roughing up leather brake pads before applying oil or for removing rust from something
- Some of the products we use and recommendare:
- Stainless Steel Polish
- Quick Shot Grease- from Schwinn- synthetic based, multi-service, non-melting waterproof grease
- Tri-flow Penetrating Lube- loosens rusted parts, frees sticky mechanisms, washes away dirt, corrosion and contaminants
- Clean Ride- use on cycle chains to prevent buildup of debris
- Debris forms but flakes off over time instead of building up
- Thread Locker- probably the most valuable product in the box- use on nuts and bolts or even bottom brackets that repeatedly come loose
- 3-n-1 Oil- lubricates, stops rust, and protects metal
- Used on leather brake pads to extend life
- That pretty much covers what you should carry in your tool box to service indoor cycles
Maintaining your Olympic Bars
Regardless of what you spent on your Olympic bars, they are an investment. And, if you operate a gym, health club or high intensity training facility, you know those bars are definitely a popular piece of equipment, subject to a lot of wear and tear. Ask yourself, “What do we do to maintain our Olympic Bars?” You’ll probably end up shrugging. Many tend to not really maintain their bars despite their importance and usually manufacturers don’t offer up any care and maintenance tips beyond: Don’t drop or overload the bars.
So, what should fitness facility owners and managers as well as home gym enthusiasts bear in mind when it comes to keeping their Olympic bars at their best? Cleaning, rust prevention, and storage are top considerations.
Combating Rust
Fact 1: Bars are made of steel and steel rusts when wet. Fact 2: When people workout, they sweat. So… when sweat gets on the bars, you can end up with rust. Bar manufacturers try to avert this by placing a coating on the bars. Common coatings include black oxide (the least expensive), chrome, zinc, and fabricating bars out of stainless steel, which is the most expensive option. However, regardless of coatings, gyms must still maintain their bars.
Don’t Chalk it Up
If your gym provides chalk, clean off the knurling on your bars on a regular basis. Depending on how much chalk gets used, this task could be performed daily. (Also remind members who bring their own chalk to clean it off as a courtesy to others.) Think about it… Chalk is used to dry sweaty palms by absorbing moisture, so when chalk remains on the bar, it’s absorbing moisture too. That means any moisture, including humidity in the air. When the chalk absorbs this and holds it on the steel bar, it’s going to be susceptible to rust. So, to keep those bars of yours from rusting, it’s essential to clean off the chalk. A small stiff nylon bristle brush will do the trick: Simply go over the knurling with the brush to remove caked-in dirt and prevent future rust.
Wipe Out
Regularly wipe down all your bars with 3-in-1 Oil or a light coat of WD-40. How often you do this depends on how often a bar is used. If you work out at home, twice a month should suffice. If you’re responsible for a gym, then once a week would be good. If there is high humidity at your location and bars are used often, you may need to wipe them down on a more frequent basis. WD-40 is a good choice because it displaces water and dries quickly. Just spray some on a rag and wipe down the entire bar with a good even coat. If you use 3-in-1 Oil, wipe a thin coating on the entire bar, have it sit on the bar overnight, and then wipe it down once again. While 3-in-1 Oil does a great job, it will leave the bars feeling a bit greasier than WD-40.
Since today’s bars are crafted to be mostly maintenance-free, there’s usually no need to oil the sleeves as these often have oil-impregnated bushings or bearings. Some high-end bars feature small oil holes in their sleeves so you can drop in a little bit of 3-in 1 Oil allowing it to work into the sleeve. (Note: Never use WD-40 for this particular of application.) Do this after use, then check the bar before using it again to see if excess oil may have leaked out and just wipe it up.
Storage Matters
Bars should never be stored with any weight on them. NEVER! If you or your club members leave weight on a bar, you’re asking for a bent bar -- especially if the bar is on a rack. While bars are designed to withstand weight, they aren’t designed to permanently hold this weight. You’ve got to strip your bars, and in the case of gyms, encourage members to do this. Also be prepared to do some work over the course of the day, removing any weights that may have been left on and put the plates away. Besides protecting the bars, it keeps gym members happy if they don’t have to keep stripping weights others left behind.
Your unloaded bars may be stored on a rack or bar stand. Horizontal storage is preferred, however, its best not to not store your needle bearing bars in a horizontal bar holder. This can cause damage to the needle bearings when the bar is dropped into the holder. A majority of gyms using needle-bearing bars for Olympic lifts avoid damage by utilizing wall racks for storing this type of bar.
It’s relatively simple to maintain your Olympic bars with just a little bit of time and effort. It’s worth it to protect your investment in this equipment and keep it useful for years to come. If you have any tips on maintaining Olympic bars, feel free to share them with us at [email protected].
How to Assemble a Keiser M3 Indoor Cycle
This video will demonstrate how to properly assemble your Keiser M3 Indoor cycle.
- First you will need to cut away the outer box, exposing the inner box.
- Next you will want to cut away the inner box exposing the parts. Be careful not to let the parts fall over and/or get damaged during this process.
- Once you have the boxes cut away you will be left with one big mass of parts zip-tied and shrink wrapped together. Carefully remove the shrink wrap and cut zip ties and place the parts aside for future use.
- After the parts have all been unwrapped and separated, carefully place the base frame onto the base frame studs. Make sure that the wheels on the base frame are facing the front of the cycle.
- Install one washer and an acorn nut onto each of the base frame studs and hand tighten.
- Using a 5/8” or 16MM crowfoot and torque wrench, torque the acorn nuts to 35 Foot Pounds. Be sure that all four of the acorn nuts have been set to the right torque.
- Before moving on to this step make sure that the shifter lever is in the downward position.
- Grab the five socket head cap screws and a 5MM Allen wrench. Now carefully slide the flywheel between the magnets and onto the hub at the same time. Holding the flywheel in place with one hand install the hub cap and align the screw holes. Make sure that the flywheel is flush against the hub and install the screws. Tighten the screws in a star pattern, as demonstrated in the video, until snug.
- Note: You will need to turn the left pedal counter clockwise to install it, as it has left handed threads. The right pedal is standard threads and will need to be turned clockwise to install it.
- The next step is to install the pedals. It is very important that you use the thread locker included. Once you’ve applied a couple of drops to the pedal, install the pedals by hand.
- Torque the pedals with a 5/8” or 16MM crowfoot and torque wrench to 35 Foot Pounds.
- The next step is to install the computer onto the frame. To complete this step you will just need a Phillips head screwdriver. Remove the screw from the frame as shown in the video and install it while holding the computer in place.
- Note: take caution that you do not pinch the compute wires.
- Once the computer is mounted the next step is to install the sweat cover. To do so you will also need a Phillips screwdriver. Begin by removing the screws from the frame as shown in the video. Now slide the cover into place and re-install the screws.
- The next step is to install the bottom slide. Using a 6MM Allen wrench remove the four screws from the frame as demonstrated in the video. Now hold the bottom slide in place with one hand and install the four hex head screws with the other hand. Once they are all finger tight, torque them with the 6MM Allen wrench.
- Next you will want to install the handlebars. Using just the red threaded portion of the L-handle (lever) and the spacer, attach the handlebars by finger tightening the spacer and threaded piece of L-handle through the slider from the bottom with the handlebars on top of the slider as shown in the video. Then re-assemble the L-handle. Once the L-handle is installed/assembled correctly you should be able to use it to loosen the handlebar and slide it to the best position for you.
- The final step is to install the flywheel guard. Be sure to install the guard between the two notches in the frame as shown in the video. Using the associated bolts install the guard to the frame at the bottom of the guard. Now use a 5MM Allen wrench to tighten the bolts into the frame.
- The final step is to go over all hardware on the bike to make sure it is properly tightened.
Additional Resources:
Keiser Parts
Fitness Equipment Repair Support Forum
How to Lubricate a Treadmill
A treadmill can be a great tool in improving your health and personal fitness. Treadmills do, however, require some basic maintenance. These basic maintenance steps include cleaning and occasionally lubricating the belt and deck. These steps will help to keep your treadmill fully operational. Treadmills typically need to be lubricated every six months. Depending on use it may need to be lubricated more often. Some models will tell you when it is time to lubricate by displaying a message on the console. Be sure to check will your Service Manual for more details.
Instructions:
- Choose a treadmill lubricant approved by the manufacturer of your treadmill. We recommend using a lubricant specifically made by the manufacturer in order to avoid any damage to the deck or belt of the treadmill. If you’ve purchased a replacement belt or deck be sure to check for what lubricants are suggested for that deck or belt.
- Make sure you turn off the treadmill and unplug it from the wall socket before performing any maintenance to the machine. This will help avoid electrical shock. Find the running belt and the running deck of the treadmill. The running belt is the moving part that rotates around the base of the treadmill. The deck is the solid surface found underneath the treadmill belt.
- Using the proper tool loosen the bolts on the rear roller. These two bolts are found at the back of the treadmill on both sides of the belt. These bolts control the tension of the belt. Once you loosen the bolts, the belt will lack and make it easy lift it up. Lifting the belt will give you access to the running deck. The belt and bolts are not to be removed from the treadmill. *Take not of how many turns you loosen each bolt.
- Clean the treadmill belt and running deck by wiping it down with a damp cloth. Make sure you have removed any dust or dirt that may have accumulated.
- Apply approximately 2 oz. of lubricant onto the top of the running deck between the belt. Evenly apply the lubricant as you spread it across the deck. Take caution to not get any on the walking surface of the belt.
- Restore the belt to its original position by tightening the rear roller bolts. Before tightening the bolts refer back to how many turns you loosened the belt in step 3. Plug the treadmill in and turn it back on. To ensure that it is properly lubricated, walk on the treadmill for a few minutes. This will help thoroughly spread the lubricant over the running deck.
Indoor Cycling, the Past, Present & Future
Indoor Cycling or Spinning has become a cornerstone of modern fitness. The sessions combine cardiovascular exercise with variations in pace and technique to give an intensive workout and training program. Spinning is a versatile class which attracts everyone from professional athletes to complete beginners.
The Past.
Stationary bikes had been part of gym workouts and home routines for years when the concept of Spinning revolutionized indoor cycling. Long distance cyclist Jonathan Goldberg a.k.a Johnny G came up with the concept in the late eighties and debuted it in the early nineties.
Johnny G arrived at the Spinning concept when he narrowly avoided an accident while training outdoors at night. He knew that a stationary bike would allow for a safe indoor workout and also allow him to concentrate fully on performance rather than the road or terrain. However he also knew that the workout on a stationary bike was too limited and inefficient to really be a decent training session.
Rather than make do with stationary bicycling, Johnny G aimed to create a bike which mimicked his road bike in as many ways as possible. Perhaps most importantly the Spinning bike allowed the rider to stand up to pedal.
Training indoors not only created advantages in terms of road safety, especially relevant when so many people can only train in the evenings after they finish work, but it also addressed seasonal variations in temperature and weather which can interfere with getting a safe and optimal workout. Safety and training was the original inspiration for Indoor Cycling; the combination of the two is what has made this class so popular.
Johnny G owns the Spinning brand but competing programs exist such as Reebok’s Studio Cycling and Keiser’s Power Pacing. The official Spinning program is currently in partnership with Star Trac while the original partner, Schwinn, now has an independent program called Schwinn Indoor Cycling.
The Present.
News about the Spinning program spread fast in the USA and from there to Europe and beyond until indoor cycling became one of the most well established fitness options available. The workout is safe, low impact and can burn up to 500 calories in 40 minutes while working not just the legs but different muscles groups such as shoulders, triceps, abdominals, back and hips. This appeals to people of different backgrounds with different fitness levels and different fitness and training goals.
What makes the indoor cycling concept so versatile for groups of mixed individuals is that people come together and experience the energy of a group atmosphere but are not expected to complete the workout or make progress in tandem with the rest of the group. The non-competitive nature of Spinning means that although the whole group may increase their effort level to simulate riding up a hill the actual increase in intensity is tailored to each individual. No one is left behind and no one crashes ahead. This individual workout in a group setting is part of what has made Spinning so popular; group energy without herd choreography.
By monitoring heart rate, distance, speed and intensity, it’s possible to have sessions be effective training for pro athletes and a good calorie burning workout for general fitness enthusiasts. In the Johnny G program, different sessions have been created such as Race Day Workout, Endurance Workout, Recovery Workout, Interval Workout and Hill Workout.
Instructors don’t just guide cyclists through techniques but provide strong vocal motivation and help participants use visualization to excel at their workout and meet their long term fitness and training goals.
The Future.
In an interview with WebMD Sports and Fitness, Johnny G spoke about his vision for the future of Spinning as being focused on increased instructor training. The idea of using an instructor to push motivation can be developed by involving the idea that physical and mental wellbeing and accomplishment are interconnected. A good mental approach boosts physical performance but equally a good workout, where a cyclist faces challenges, overcomes adversity, exceeds expectation by developing ability and so on will create a better mental outlook away from classes. It’s likely that this therapeutic angle will become much more deeply ingrained over the next few years.
Accompanying language led visualization and motivation will be advances to the already rapidly developing audio and visual elements of indoor cycling. Specially structured music, video and lighting will simulate a road bike journey, aid visualization of the workout such as increase, decrease of intensity, and assist an overall mental journey throughout the session. The immersive aspects of indoor cycling are certainly going to be a big growth area.
In the bikes themselves, the future of Spinning is predicted to be in the customizability of the equipment. Bikes, which tilt and move around to simulate not just road biking but different terrains are another potential avenue which may take off. Even PowerPlate has made a powerBIKE which uses PowerPlate vibrations to increase muscle activity and boost calorie consumption during a workout. Diverse approaches are sure to be seen but what will remain constant is that Spinning provides a safe, intensive and varied workout or training session.
How to Adjust Chain Tension for a Schwinn IC Bike
Video Demonstrating How to Adjust Chain Tension for a Schwinn IC Bike
- This video will demonstrate the chain tension procedure on a Schwinn IC bike
- Tools required:
- 15mm Wrench
- 10mm Wrench
- 4mm Allen Wrench
- Although the tension is set at the factory over time the chain may loosen and need adjustment
- To inspect the chain tension, remove the chain guard
- Use a 4mm Allen wrench to remove the 3 screws as shown in the video
- Turn the pedal to the 3 o' clock position (as shown in the video), then grasp the chain guard and move it back past the tab at the back of the chain guard
- Place the pedal in the 9 o' clock position and you can remove the chain guard as demonstrated in the video
- Test the chain for 3/16" of deflection
- If adjustment is needed, loosen the nuts on each end of the axle with a 15mm wrench
- Now using a 10mm wrench, make equal adjustments to the bolts that stick through the frame at the front of the cycle
- Then retest the deflection
- Make small adjustments until the proper 3/16" of deflection is achieved
- Tighten the axle bolts and replace the chain guard
- This completes the procedure of adjusting the chain tension on a Schwinn IC bike
Stairmaster Steppers C40 Console Repair
C40 Console Repair Video Demonstrating Replacement of the PCB and PCBA for Stairmaster Steppers
- This video demonstrates the steps necessary when replacing the PCB and/or PCBA in order to repair a C40 console used on Stairmaster steppers
- This procedure applies to the following models:
- 7000PT Stepmill
- 4400PT
- 4400CL
- 4600PT
- 4600CL
- To begin changing the console boards on your machine you must first remove the console from the machine. You will need to disconnect the main cable harness and remove the four screws that hold the console to the frame
- Once you have removed the console from the machine you need to remove the six screws from the back of the console. After the screws are removed you can carefully separate the two pieces a bit and see the two cables that connect the two panels as shown in the video. These two cables must be disconnected before you can separate the back panel from the front
- The ribbon cable that connects the two boards must be removed by separating the connector as shown in the video and then carefully lifting the ribbon off the connector. Once you have successfully removed the cable that connects the two boards (PCB and PCBA), you can flip the panel up slowly as shown in the video enough to see where the keypad ribbon connects to the PCB. Carefully remove the keypad ribbon from the connector on the PCB. Now you can fully separate the two panels
- At this point you can access the boards to replace the one giving you issues. For instance if you have diagnosed the console as having a bad PCBA you can now replace that board by removing the four screws that attach it to the panel. Then carefully remove the board
- To install the new one carefully line up the holes and replace the screws as seen in the video
- If you have determined the PCB as the problem you will remove the five screws attaching it to the panel and then carefully remove the board as shown in the video
- Before installing the new PCB to the panel you will want to make sure that the interconnect cable is connected fully and connected to the proper connector as shown in the video. If they cable is connected to the wrong connector it will not power up or work at all. This is a common mistake when replacing the board/s
- Now replace the board and screws
- Then you can re-assemble the console, but be sure to connect the cable and ribbon fully and to the correct connector. It may help to stand one panel up next to the end where the keypad ribbon goes from the keypad to the PCB. Then plug in the interconnect cable that connects the PCB to the PCBA as seen in the video
- Place the 2 panels together and replace the screws. The Longer screws go in the bottom portion of the console and the 2 shorter screws go in the top part of the console. Once the screws are replaced you can install the console to the machine
- Be sure to connect the main cable assembly to the back of the console and be certain the cable is fully connected with the tabs in the locked position as shown in the video
- This concludes our example of how to replace a PCB or PCBA when repairing a C40 console found on steppers by Stairmaster
RUMBLE AND ROLL
For quite a while now, both therapists and athletes have used foam rollers to relieve pain and stress on their muscles. It's a known scientific fact that muscle compression and manipulation can help with blood flow and relieve pain and fatigue. Most of the foam rollers that have been produced have flat surfaces. While this will help some, it's not as efficient as it could be. Enter the Rumble Roller. It's like having your own massage therapist on hand 24/7!
The difference between the Rumble Roller and other foam rollers is the multitude of "fingers", or bumps that cover it's surface. It's these bumps that produce the more pronounced effects that standard rollers can't do. Instead of merely compressing the muscle tissue, the bumps actually manipulate the muscle, similar to how a real massage therapist or D.O. would do. It's this deep massage manipulation that increases the efficiency of the roller. These bumps are soft and flexible, so you can use the roller on your entire body without worrying about damaging bone or muscle, and two firmness levels are offered as well.
SPORTSMITH currently carries the Rumble Roller in two sizes. The Compact version is only twelve inches long, and can be tossed into a gym bag or suitcase easily. The Full Size model is significantly larger, at thirty-one inches. It's designed for use in the home, or as a permanent piece in a gym setting. We carry the Extra Firm model and in an easy to maintain black color. Both are economically priced and will ship the same day you order them (Monday through Friday). Just call our toll free number or log on to our website and order one today!
Daily Maintenance of the LeMond RevMaster Indoor Cycle
Video about Daily Maintenance of the LeMond RevMaster Indoor Cycle
- This video will demonstrate how to properly maintain your Lemond Revmaster.
- Tools needed:
- 15mm Pedal Wrench
- Equipment Cleaning Wipes, Soap and Water, or a Proper Cleaning Solution
- To begin do the daily recommended maintenance as follows:
Note: Left and right side are determined as if you are on the bike
- Using a 15mm wrench make sure the pedals are tightened fully into the crank arms
- Turn the left pedal counter-clockwise to tighten
- Turn the right side clockwise to tighten
- Inspect the pedals for loose or missing hardware
- Inspect the straps for wear or damage
- Wipe down the machine daily with soap and water or a diluted, non-abrasive cleaning solution or use Sportsmith's equipment wipes
- You just want to wipe it down every day to make sure no sweat or contaminants sit on the equipment and get under the paint or chrome and begin the corroding
- Don't forget to wipe down the inside the handlebar and seat posts on the frame as well as the slide portion of the seat and handlebar to be sure that nothing gets to set in this area and begin the rusting process
For more Lemond Revmaster maintenance videos:
Keeping your Treadmills Clean
In most gyms, the equipment that sees the most use are usually the cardio machines, in particular, the treadmills. These machines are expensive, and require some regular basic maintenance and cleaning to keep running properly. Treadmills, more than almost any other piece of equipment, absorb a LOT of wear and tear. Just a bit of caution and common sense will keep your machine in top form (while it keeps you in top form!), and prevent you from having to buy expensive replacement parts, or even worse, a new treadmill.
Whether your treadmill is in a gym or at the home, your best friend is going to be the operation manual. Whether in booklet form or on-line, make sure to read it thoroughly and see what the manufacturer recommends for regular maintenance and cleaning. If in doubt, either visit the company's website or give them a call for further information.
The cleaning supplies you'll need are simple. Some soft rags, a cleaning solution of some kind (mild, non-acid soap is best), some Isopropyl alcohol, and a vacuum with a hose attachment. That's pretty much it. Remember to observe proper safety. Turn off and unplug the machine before doing ANY cleaning to it.
Give your machine a wipe down after each workout. This keeps your body oils and sweat off the machine, which can corrode certain parts. A clean rag or equipment wipes will do the trick. Once a week, give it a more thorough cleaning, especially if it's in a gym environment. Take a mild soap and water solution and apply to a rag. Give it a once over, paying attention to the areas that are touched the most, such as the hand rails, the heart monitor grips, and the control console. Be sure the rag is damp, not dripping wet.
Dirt and dust are also a big issue with treadmills. The deck that the belt runs over needs a smooth surface to run correctly, and even small particles of dust collecting underneath the belt can cause big damage to the deck. To prevent this, all you need is a simple vacuum cleaner. If equipped, periodically raise the elevation, pop on the hose attachment and vacuum underneath the machine. Hand dust any places the hose won't reach. Also, lift the motor cover and vacuum the exposed area. If the treadmill is in a gym, make sure that your patrons don't wear the shoes they came in off the street with on the treadmill. Proper workout shoes will keep the grime and dirt off the treadmill and decrease your maintenance issues.
The deck is one of the most expensive parts of any treadmill, and you want to keep it in good working order. Some decks require waxing. Depending on the machine, the wax is either applied automatically from an internal reservoir or the deck needs to be waxed by the user. Either way, make sure you do this! Keep the reservoir full, and make sure you have wax on hand if you have to do it yourself. Keep the surfaces of the deck clean from grime, and give it a good wipe down with a soft cloth once a week.
Cleaning the heart monitor grips is important, too, especially in a gym. Many people rely on these to check their heart rates during workouts, and since the grips are touched by many, many different hands, they can get dirty very fast. Combat this with a little Isopropyl alcohol or use a disinfecting wipe. Apply Isopropyl alcohol to rag and wipe down. Even if it doesn't look dirty, it probably is. Cleaning these grips once a week will keep them working like new.
Belt slippage is a common problem with most treadmills, but it's an easy one to fix if you know how. If you notice that the belt on your machine looks or feels slippery, it probably needs to be tightened. At the rear part of the machine, there will be two large adjustment bolts. Find where these are using your manual. After getting the proper sized socket and wrench (something you should have in case of maintenance issues anyway), give them a quarter turn clockwise, then get on the treadmill and check if it still feels the same. Keep turning the bolts a quarter turn then checking until it no longer slips.
A treadmill is like any other machine. It needs a little TLC from time to time. Keeping it clean and maintained will make sure that it lasts you a long time.